Uniform History
Over the next few weeks we will look into everything from the concepts of uniforms over all down to why we have particular styles and tailoring specific elements within RN uniforms over time.
The Officer and the Gentleman
Stamp from a Royal Mail collection published in 2009 detailing various RN uniforms
RN uniforms began way back in 1604 with King James I when he appointed six “Principal Masters of the Navy” and dressed them in liveries made from red and gold velvet embroidered with silver and gold threads. This was the first time naval men had been denoted as clearly in service to the King.
By the 18th century we began to see the first regulated naval uniforms for naval officers. To avoid being associated with liveries given to servants, officers petitioned the Admiralty to grant them a uniform, allowing them to create their own uniform rather than have one imposed.
Naval officers unforms were by no means “uniform” though. As they were each cut by the individuals tailor of choice, they were often styled to reflect their own interests in fashion. Groups like the Dandies, whose fashion was influenced by the French Revolution, or the Fops, who were characterised by their elegance and deportment, all identified themselves through the cut of their uniform.
So, naval officers began to dress in “regulated clothing” to distinguish themselves. Rather than silks worn in court they wore wool, but the embroidery and gold thread embellishments remained, thus bringing together “The Officer and the Gentleman”.
The Origin Story
The first uniforms of the RN were not imposed by the Admiralty, rather, they were requested by Commissioned Officers to distinguish themselves from sailors of other ranks.
Uniforms were seen as a signal of professionalism and exclusivity, separating Commissioned Officers of the Royal Navy from those in the Army (wearing red), so denoting themselves as the Senior Service.
After meetings in various coffee houses a group of officers, known as the “Navy Club”, sent a proposal to the Admiralty Board, proactively seeking to present their proposed uniform to the King. The new uniform would not only distinguish commissioned officers, it would differentiate the Royal Navy from any other force and raise the identity of the RN Officer across society.
Officers were asked to have garments created to their own taste, which were to be presented to the King who would make the final decision.
The final uniform choice was introduced by the Admiralty in April 1748, consisting of two suits, dress and undress, both made from blue wool with white facings and different levels of embellishments of gold lace or metal threads which would become more elaborate with rank.
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Following the implementation of officers uniform a thriving second-hand clothing trade began in the Royal Navy as uniforms were circulated from sales of deceased shipmates belongings at the mast, from the “dead mans chest”.
Our very own “dead mans chest” is open in HMS Nelson Wardroom Wednesday mornings 0930-1230. You can book an appointment here https://www.tintrousers.com/book-online